Select a FAQ category below or continue scrolling down to look at all the questions and answers.
Yes, we are taking orders now, and trees will be dispatched in June/July.
Yes, payment is due immediately with your order. We are unable to hold trees for you, without payment.
Yes we do. This year we have quite a number of apple varieties which are offered on dwarf rootstocks (M26)which will usually yield around a two metre tree if left to grow to a standard shaped vase or central leader tree. They can also be kept lower than this by pruning, without too much trouble. If they are trained to espalier on a fence, they can be kept to two metres, and are very suitable for this also.
Other dwarf trees include all of the quinces, the sour cherries, we offer semi – dwarf sweet cherries (which grow to three metres or less), all of our quinces are on semi dwarfing rootstocks, we have Sunny Dwarf Nectarine, Val Miniature Peach, Valley Red Dwarf Peach, Queensland Dwarf Peach, semi dwarf Fuyu persimmon, semi dwarf Self pollinating almond. We also now offer the latest dwarf stone fruit range on pumiselect dwarfing rootstocks, including two metre high apricots like dwarf moorpark, and dwarf Trevatt. Also two metre high dwarf blood plums such as dwarf Satsuma and dwarf Santa Rosa. These grow into a genuinely dwarfed stone fruit tree but yield a very good fruit load at the same time. Great for backyards and smaller spaces.
There are also many berry and vine plants, which grow to low heights – including rapsberries, blackberries, kiwi fruits, currants, and more.
No, we dont send trees to WA or TAS, due to quarantine difficulties.
Many of our trees give a very good result when espaliered. The best trees for basic horizontal espaliering are pears, apples and cherries. This is because they are easy to pull branches downwards and train flat. Also they produce fruit on spurs, which works well for this sort of training, and ensures a good crop is set.
It is also quite possible to espalier a lot of other sorts of trees, including stone fruit (best done in a ‘fan’ shape), lemons, figs, quinces and persimmons.
That all depends – there are a number of variables. If they are growing in good, fertile deep soil, and are getting adequate summer moisture through irrigation, then they will grow a lot bigger than trees which are planted in heavy clay soil, with poor drainage, or lack of watering in the summer. At an average, a stone fruit tree in good conditions could reach 3-4 metres. Pears can grow into 5 metre trees, our apples grow to 3 metres, or less depending on pruning, quinces grow to two metres. Dwarf trees will usually grow to two metres or less.
Most of our fruit trees need a certain amount of winter chill hours to keep their fruiting cycle going, so the more tropical your conditions, the less likely that these trees will grow well. There are some parts of Queensland where people are able to grow these temperate trees with good success, including inland areas of Stanthorpe / Tenterfield. Closer to the ocean, you could probably do alright up as far as Nowra. The best thing to do if you are not sure, is ask around your neighbours to see what they are having success with, as this is usually the most reliable guide.
There are a number of varieties that don’t need a lot of winter chill hours, and will fruit very well in warmer winters and subtropic weather. Some of the apples with low chill requirement are Lady Williams, Pink Lady, Fuji, Red Gala, Bonza, Rome Beauty, Sundowner. Low chill pears include Hood, Flordahome, and Corella. Lower chill peaches include Beale, Flavourcrest, Tropic Snow , Maravilha. Nectarines for low chill areas are Fantasia, Early Goldmine, Sundowner and Arctic Sweet. Plums to try would be Gulf Gold, Gulf Ruby and Mariposa. Sunburst cherry is worth a go, and all of the quinces will make a good show. Heritage raspberry needs significantly less chill hours than most of the other berries, and there are very good reports of its performance up in northern Australia.
The trees can be planted anywhere between 2 metres and 6 metres apart. Two metres if you are trellising them and using dwarf trees, apples, quinces etc.
If planting in a standard orchard situation, you can plant anywhere between four to six metres apart. If you plant close, the tree roots will meet each other sooner, and start competing with each other, thereby keeping their size more limited. If you plant further apart, you will get bigger more spreading trees, and in most situations they will grow to fill up the space in between.
No – we are not open to the public. Our business is carried out online taking orders and payment through our online shop on this website. All trees are dispatched direct to your door.
Trees will often do better out in the open ground, rather than in a pot. However they are still able to be grown in pots, and this is a method which is becoming increasingly popular. We would recommend using the very best potting mix you can find, and you need to make sure that the pot doesn’t dry out. Probably the best way of going about it, is to put a water timer on, so that the potted plant gets a regular drink. You will need to fertilise, probably with some good quality compost, or dynamic lifter, blood and bone etc. Trees most suited to pot culture include figs, dwarf nectarine and peach, dwarf apples, semi dwarf Fuyu persimmon, and the quinces. Also try raspberries, blackberries, and semi dwarf cherries.
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